Portovenere is one of our favourite small towns on the Ligurian Coast in Italy

Porto Venere – Hidden Gem in The Shadow of Cinque Terre

In Europe, Italy by JurgaTHIS POST CONTAINS AFFILIATE LINKS

Portovenere is a little medieval town in Liguria Italy just a stone’s throw away from the famous Cinque Terre. Despite its status of UNESCO World Heritage site and the most beautiful location on the Gulf of The Poets, this picturesque town is still under the radar of millions of international visitors flocking to Cinque Terre.

Yes, Cinque Terre is beautiful and it’s definitely worth a visit. But there are so many places nearby that are just as beautiful (if not more), yet many tourists never even consider them.

In my previous post I highlighted some of the most beautiful towns along the Ligurian Coast. Today I want to talk more about one of our favourites – Portovenere or Porto Venere. If you want to escape the huge crowds of Cinque Terre and are looking to explore the area a bit deeper, then don’t miss this lesser known gem in the Bay of Poets.

We visited Portovenere at the end of October and it being low season we were a bit uncertain if we would find enough to see and do in Porto Venere to fill the day. And certainly with three kids who always need to be entertained… It turned out that this little town had so much more to offer than it looked at first sight.

We visited all the main landmarks, climbed countless staircases and explored the narrow streets of this medieval town, walked along the cliffs, enjoyed the most spectacular sceneries and local food…

One day in Porto Venere flew by. It was a truly enjoyable visit and the town was pleasantly quiet compared to the crazy busy Cinque Terre we visited the previous day.

We spent the whole day in this historical town and below you can find some suggestions for the best things to do in Portovenere. At the bottom of the post you can also find some practical information for your visit. Find out!

Porto Venere is a true jewel of Italian Liguria near Cinque Terre

 

Best things to do in Porto Venere:

Visit the picturesque harbor of Portovenere

Chances are big that you will arrive in Porto Venere by boat. The moment you catch your first glimpse on the picturesque harbour surrounded by a wall of colourful buildings you will fall in love with this old fishermen’s village.

The little harbour has a beautiful location overlooking the nearby Palmaria Island. This is a great place to have lunch or just grab a drink at one of the many cafes. Sit back and relax enjoying the ever-changing view of the boats passing the narrow Le Bocche channel on their way to Cinque Terre.

Colorful buildings of Porto Venere Italy

Colorful buildings at Portovenere harbor

 

Porta del Borgo and the narrow medieval streets

The old town of Portovenere is hidden behind the facade of the buildings that you see from the harbour. You can enter the medieval town through Porta del Borgo – the old city gate. Adjacent to the city gate is the Capitolare Tower. Just as most of the other buildings in town, it dates from the 12th century.

Once inside, you will find a labyrinth of narrow streets, stairways and tiny passageways that is well worth getting lost in. The main street, Via Capellini is full of artisanal and souvenir shops and can get quite busy. But the moment you leave it, you often have the whole place to yourselves. Take your time to explore the old town and slowly make your way up towards the castle.

Porta del Borgo and Torre Capitolare in Portovenere Italy

Porta del Borgo and Torre Capitolare

 

Medieval town of Portovenere in Italy

View over Porto Venere on the way to the castle

Via Capellini in Portovenere Italy

Via Capellini – main shopping street

 

Doria Castle

Situated high on the hill and overlooking the Bay of Poets one one side and Ligurian See on the other side, Castello Doria is a must in Portovenere.

This miltary fortress dates from 12th-14th centuries and was of big significance due to its strategic location. It’s quite a steep climb to get there, but it’s well worth the effort. The views from the gardens are phenomenal and justify the small entrance fee. Don’t miss!

View over the Gulf of the Poets from Doria castle in Portovenere

View over the Gulf of the Poets from Doria castle

 

Church of San Lorenzo

Right next to the castle you can find the Santuario della Madonna Bianca, also called the Church of San Lorenzo. Every year in August the White Madonna, patron saint of Porto Venere, is celebrated here.

The interior of this church is well worth a quick look, but if you are short on time, the view from outside is beautiful too.

Church of San Lorenzo in Porto Venere Italy

Church of San Lorenzo

 

Church of Saint Peter

San Pietro Church (Chiesa di San Pietro) has the best location in town. Standing on top of the rock and surrounded by the azure blue water from three sides it almost looks like a fortified castle. Its ‘striped’ exterior is quite remarkable, but make sure to take a look inside as well. We loved its simple interior and a very special medieval atmosphere.

View over Ligurian Sea from Saint Pietro Church in Porto Venere Italy

View from Saint Peter Church

 

Lord Byron’s Grotto

Just next to St. Peter Church you can see an observation deck next to Lord Byron’s Grotto (previously Grotta Arpaia). The Bay of Poet’s gets its name because the area was so beloved by the English poets. Lord Byron often stayed here and he used to swim across the bay to visit his fellow poet Shelley. Hence the name of the grotto. Nowadays it’s a nice place to swim, dive, or sail. Just be careful with the currents.

Church of Saint Pieter and Lord Byron Grotto in Portovenere Italy

Church of Saint Peter and Lord Byron’s Grotto

 

Porto Venere Regional Natural Park

Porto Venere Regional Natural Park has several hiking trails. We didn’t go hiking here, but if you have more time it might be well worth it to explore the area on foot.

It’s even possible to hike from Portovenere to Riomaggiore and it’s said to be a very scenic coastal walk. I am not sure which direction would be less challenging, so you may want to inquire at the tourist office first. You can hike one way and take a boat back (or vice versa).

Porto Venere Regional Natural Park Italy

beautiful coastline at Porto Venere

 

Visit the nearby islands: Palmaria, Tino, and Tinetto

In summer you can take a scenic boat tour or a taxi boat to the nearby islands Palmaria, Tino, and Tinetto.

Tino is a military island and Tinetto is just a tiny rock with some ancient ruins, so both islands can usually be only seen from a boat.

Isola Palmaria is the biggest island of the three. It’s dotted with caves, beaches, and walking paths and is a popular day trip from Portovenere. It’s a great place to go swimming, snorkelling or diving.

Palmaria Island as seen from Porto Venere - Italy

Palmaria Island as seen from Porto Venere

 

So these are the main highlights that you shouldn’t miss in Portovenere. You can see the town in just a few hours and continue your journey to Cinque Terre. But if you have more time, consider spending at least a day in Portovenere – you’ll love it here!

Porto Venere is also a great place to stay a few days longer and it makes a good base location for exploring the villages of Cinque Terre and some other nearby towns (La Spezia, Lerici, Tellaro) as well.

Practical information:

How to get to Portovenere? One of the reasons why Portovenere is less visited than the nearby towns is its more remote location. There is no train station here, but you can reach Portovenere by car, bus, taxi, or ferry boat from La Spezia. La Spezia is a nearby town that is easily accessible by car or train and is a good base to explore Cinque Terre and the Bay of Poets. Driving here is not easy and parking spots are limited, so I would only advise to come to Portovenere by car if you are staying for a night and can book a hotel with car parking.

Where to stay? There aren’t that many hotels in Portovenere, so it’s advisable to book well in advance. The best hotel in town is the beautiful Grand Hotel Portovenere overlooking the small port and Palmaria island. You can find more Portovenere accommodation options here. Alternative is to stay in La Spezia and visit Porto Venere for a day.

Can you see Portovenere and Cinque Terre in one day? It is possible to visit Portovenere and the villages of Cinque Terre in just one day.

Take the first boat from La Spezia to Cinque Terre. The full day ticket allows you to hop off and on in 4 Cinque Terre villages (excluding Camogli which has no port) and also in Porto Venere.

If you don’t need much time in the villages and are happy with just a short glimpse of each place, then yes, it is possible to see Cinque Terre and Porto Venere on the same day.

However, I would advise to do this in two separate days. Here you can find our suggested itinerary for one day in Cinque Terre. If you are planning a trip to the area make sure to read this post for more practical information for visiting Cinque Terre.

Grand Hotel Portovenere is the best place to stay in Porto Venere - Liguria Italy

Grand Hotel Portovenere

 

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Best things to do in Portovenere Italy

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Comments

  1. Hi. I am David. I have reached you from Instagram and you suggest me to ask here. 🙂
    I have planned my trip to Cinque Terre next month and I will go there using train from Milan.
    I have several questions
    1. I will arrive there at 9 approximately, I plan to use your entire one day journey in Cinque Terre and i will stay one night at Corniglia. So basically how many times do you think i need to use train? We love to do trekking but we want to be able to catch all the important places. I need your consideration
    2. I will go to Portovenere and i will go back to Milan at 18.30 from La Spezia. Do you think our time is enough to explore Portovenere?

    1. Author

      Hi David,
      Yes, it’s better to post your questions here, as other readers can also benefit from the answers.
      1. One day is ok to explore Cinque Terre, especially because you’re planning to sleep there. How many times you’ll need to take a train will depend on how you plan your day: where you start, if you hike, and how far you hike, etc. In any case, just buy the Cinque Terre card for a day, and all your train rides and hiking pass will be included in it. Please read this post for more practical information on visiting Cinque Terre. Here you can find our suggestions on how to spend 1 day in Cinque Terre.
      Just a remark. Corniglia is, in my view, not the best place to stay in Cinque Terre. The village is located high on the mountain and the train station is by the sea. So you’ll need to carry all your luggage up hill. Maybe there is a bus, not sure how often it runs in November.
      2. You don’t need the whole day for Portovenere, especially in November, as the boats to the nearby islands don’t go anymore and Portovenere itself is rather small. It’s quite easy to see the town in just a few hours (easy-going), so yes, plenty of time.
      The only difficulty in November will be actually getting there and back to La Spezia. There are no trains going to Portovenere. In high season the easiest way to get there from Cinque Terre or from La Spezia is by boat, but most boats stop running at the end of October. I think the best way to get there in November is by taking a bus or a taxi from La Spezia, so you have to keep the bus schedule in mind when you plan your day.
      Hope this helps.

  2. Hi! Great article about Porto Venere! We are going to Cinque Terre area for the last 2 days of our trip – Nov. 9-11.. I love the idea of avoiding the crowds in CT by staying outside of the towns. Hoped for Grand Hotel Portovenere but it is either fully booked or maybe closes for winter? Do you have any other recommendations for accommodations in the area? We are hoping for a larger hotel with amenities, and of course on the water if possible.
    Thank you!

    1. Author

      Hi Phyllis, there are not that many accommodation options in Portovenere, unfortunately. I see that there is still some availability in some smaller hotels (you can find all the options here). Alternatively, check this website, it might have some other options.
      It seems like Portovenere is quite popular, even in November. If you don’t find anything, try La Spezia and make a day trip to Portovenre from there. Another nice choice might be Lerici – beautiful little town with more accommodation options. Only a bit more difficult to get to than La Spezia, but accessibility is comparable to Porto Venere.
      Hope this helps. Enjoy your trip!

  3. Thankyou Jurga, you have been very helpful , myself and 4 sisters are looking forward to our time in the Cinque Terra and Portovenere in September. Heather Australia

  4. Great read and helpful information. I will be staying for 4 days in the Cinque Terre and would like to visit Portovenere for a day trip . If we train from Monteresso to Le spenzia then go by boat to Portovenere , is there a boat that can take us back to the Cinque Terre instead of going back to Le spenzia . Thankyou

    1. Author

      Hi Heather, yes there are regular boat connections between La Spezia, Portovenere, and four villages of Cinque Terre in high season. I say 4 because boats don’t stop in Corniglia as there is no harbour there. There are more boats boats in summer (April through September) than in March and October, and no boats in winter. You can find the Cinque Terre boat schedule here. It’s possible they even have more boats on the really busy days in summer, so just ask what’s the schedule like for that day when they drop you off in Porto Venere.
      Also, check this post for more practical information for visiting Cinque Terre.

  5. Thank you for this wonderful description of Portovenera, Jurga. Can you tell me is there is a place there where we can securely stow our luggage while we visit the town?

    1. Author

      Hi Patti, unfortunately I really don’t know if you can easily store your luggage anywhere in town. If you are staying there, then I’m sure the hotels will hold it for you. And otherwise – really no idea. It’s a small town, I don’t think they have facilities like that.

  6. Dear Jurga,
    Great to read your 2018 Portovenere blog and reminisce our week stay there in early May 2012. Our room at Albergo Paradiso, a 4 minute (270m) walk to Porto del Bergo, with its balcony overlooking the Gulf of Poets provided us with many moments of just soaking in the atmosphere after exploring the city, its churches, the neighbouring Palmira island and savouring the many sumptuous meals finely accompanied by Ligurian Rosseses and Vermentinos, which the streets and laneways behind unveiled.
    A mid morning espresso on a balcony in a cafe on via Cappellini overlooking the port provided a great spot to people watch.
    Some return year after year for 12 years as we discovered, when we met an American couple at dinner in the wonderful Ristorante Il Timone.
    We have not returned, only because there is so much of the world to experience but Portovenere was one of the stops with our fondest memories.

    Best wishes to you and your bloods,
    Chris (Melbourne, Australia)

    1. Author

      Thank you for sharing your beautiful memories, Chris. It’s like being back there again :). I can definitely see why people would go back to Portovenere again and again. But we are more like yourself – rarely going back to the same place. The world is so big and there are so many new places to be discovered… Happy travels! Jurga

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