Sitting atop a rocky islet along the rugged coast of the Bay of Biscay, the Chapel of San Juan de Gaztelugatxe (or simply Gaztelugatxe) is one of the most breathtaking places to visit in Northern Spain.
Gaztelugatxe is connected to the mainland by a narrow stone bridge and a series of zigzagging steps and looks like a place from fairytales or movies. Indeed, you may recognize it as ‘Dragonstone’ from season 7 of the famous HBO series Game of Thrones.
It will come as no surprise that such a captivating destination in a unique setting has a rich history steeped in legends and stories. Some of those stories involve pirates, inquisition, and witchhunts. In the Middle Ages, there was a convent here and Gaztelugatxe has been a pilgrimage site for centuries. You can still see the Stations of the Cross on your way to the chapel.
Nowadays, Gaztelugatxe is a protected biotope and one of the most popular tourist destinations in the Basque Country. This means that there are quite some things you may want to know in advance, or you risk not being able to visit at all…
We recently visited Gaztelugatxe and in this guide, we share our top tips to help you make the most of your visit. At the bottom of this article, you can also find the map indicating the official entrance of the site, the best parking areas, bathroom facilities, etc. Find out!
Interesting to know: The literal translation of Gaztelugatxe from Basque means ‘castle rock’ (gaztelu-aitz) or ‘inaccessible castle’ (gaztelu-gatxe). However, there is no castle here, just a little chapel.
Here are our top tips for your visit to San Juan de Gaztelugatxe:
1. Decide if you’ll visit on your own or with a tour
San Juan de Gaztelugatxe is located about 30 km/ 35 minutes drive northeast of Bilbao or 120km/ 1.5 hours drive from San Sebastian.
If you have a car, you can easily visit on your own. Otherwise, you will have to rely on public transport or – much simpler – book a guided tour.
The reason why we list this as the very first tip is that if you decide to go on your own, you will need to reserve timed entry tickets for Gaztelugatxe (more about it below). Whereas if you go on a guided tour, you don’t have to worry about reservations.
Good to know: Most guided tours that visit San Juan de Gaztelugatxe start from Bilbao and include several other places in their itineraries, but there is also a tour that only visits Gaztelugatxe, which is perfect for those with little time.
Here are some of the best Gaztelugatxe tours from Bilbao:
- San Sebastian + San Juan de Gaztelugatxe day trip (10 hours).
- Gaztelugatxe, Gernika, and Mundaka (6 hours).
- Gaztelugate (3.5 hours – small group tour).
2. Reserve Gaztelugatxe tickets in advance!
A visit to San Juan de Gaztelugatxe is free of charge, however, they limit the number of visitors, so you need to reserve a time slot. Without an online reservation, you will not be allowed to enter the site (unless you come here as part of a guided tour, as mentioned earlier).
Gaztelugatxe tickets can be reserved for free on the official website. Reservations are required every day in the peak summer season and on weekends and public holidays in the lower season.
In July and August, all time slots are usually booked up 2-3 weeks in advance. We visited Gaztelugatxe on a Monday afternoon at the beginning of July and made reservations about 10 days in advance without any issues. However, when I checked for tickets for later that same week, most time slots were unavailable. From mid-July, all days were completely booked up several weeks ahead.
I have read multiple reviews online where people complained that they drove a few hours to get to Gaztelugatxe just to be turned away at the entrance gate. In a shoulder season, you might be able to make a last-minute reservation on the spot (assuming that you can get on the internet), but you really can’t count on this.
Some people complained that they had to wait for the system to release the spots that got canceled that day, to then ‘get lucky’ to book a time slot 4-6 hours later… So save yourself the stress and book tickets well in advance!
What to do if you can’t reserve a time slot anymore? See the section ‘How to see Gaztelugatxe without a reservation’ further below for some suggestions!
3. Plan well so that you don’t miss your time slot
Since you have to reserve a time slot, it’s essential to plan your day well so that you can estimate your arrival time at Gaztelugatxe quite precisely.
If you are going with a guided tour, this is not something you have to worry about.
However, if you rely on public transport, you need to do thorough research on schedules and bus connections. If driving, keep in mind that the last part of the road is quite curvy and narrow and parking is limited (you can find more info about parking further below).
So it’s best to foresee some extra time in case it takes you longer to find a parking spot and walk to the official entrance.
Good to know: According to the information we received on our booking, you can enter 10 minutes before your time slot and up to 1 hour after. Our email said the following: ‘in case of not entering Gaztelugatxe at the hour shown in the ticket, the reservation will be cancelled 60 minutes after‘. However, be sure to read your confirmation email in detail in case this changes!
READ ALSO: Basque Country Itinerary (how to see the best places in 2 days)
4. Don’t underestimate the hike!
While the route to Gaztelugatxe is well-maintained and isn’t very challenging, it’s also quite steep. So you need to be fit and be able to do a couple hundred stairs. It will be even harder if you are visiting on a warm summer day.
There are two routes leading to the stone bridge which connects the mainland to the island where the Chapel of San Juan de Gaztelugatxe is located. By far the most popular is the route from Urizarreta, starting at the main entrance next to the Eneperi restaurant. It’s about 1.2 km one way and follows a steep footpath including some stairs.
The longer Ermu route is about 1.9 km and follows a wide gravel road that is also used by service vehicles. I think you have to use another entrance if you want to take this route, but in all honestly, hardly anyone does. We haven’t seen anyone hike there during our visit, but if you want to try, you could also hike down using the shorter route and come back up via the longer one which is a bit less steep.
Good to know: The hike to Gaztelugatxe is not recommended for people with health problems or with limited mobility. If you are visiting with kids in a stroller, you could take the Ermu route up to the stone bridge. However, if you want to climb to the chapel itself and not just see it from a distance, you can’t avoid the staircase on the island.
Hike duration: Even if you take the shorter route, you need at least 1.5 hours for a visit to Gaztelugatxe: about 30 minutes to hike to the chapel (+5-10 minutes detour to the viewpoint), 10 minutes at the top, and 40 minutes to walk back.
The first part of the hike is downhill until you get to the sea. On the way, you can also take a small detour to a viewpoint from which you have a good view of San Juan de Gaztelugatxe. Once you cross the bridge, you have to climb on a 241-step staircase to the chapel.
With the detour and some time for photos, it took us almost 40 minutes to reach the chapel from the entrance. If you are very fit, walk very fast, and don’t stop much, you might be able to do it in 25-30 minutes. However, keep in mind that the path is sometimes quite narrow so you can’t easily pass other people along the way.
After your visit, you take the same stairs down and have to climb the hill to get back to where you started. Walking in this direction feels much tougher. We didn’t stop much on our way back and didn’t take any detours, and it took us almost 40 minutes to get back to the car.
How much time do you need in total: We recommend planning at least 2 hours for a visit to Gaztelugatxe. Add an hour if you want to have lunch at the restaurant (and be sure to check if it’s open at the time of your visit).
5. Wear sturdy shoes
The hike to San Juan de Gaztelugatxe is not very difficult, but it’s rather steep (with up to 35% gradient) and some parts involve hiking on rougher terrain. If it rains (or has rained recently), the pathway and the stairs can be quite slippery as well.
So it’s important to wear closed shoes with good ankle support.
Hiking boots are not absolutely necessary (although we saw many people wearing them). You should be ok in sporty sneakers with a non-slippery sole.
Everyone in our family wore sneakers and even though the path was a bit slippery from the rainfall the previous day, we didn’t really miss our hiking shoes.
Good to know: It is forbidden to enter the site in flip-flops or high heels.
6. Prepare for the weather
Basque Country is known for its mild and wet climate. In general, you can expect some rain and cooler temperatures here than in the rest of Spain.
Nevertheless visiting Gaztelugatxe in the summer can be quite demanding. There is little shade at the start/end of the hike but none at all on the stairs.
Important! Be sure to check the weather forecast, dress accordingly, and pack plenty of drinking water for the hike. In the summer, sun protection is a must! Unless it’s a sunny day with not a cloud in the sky, bring a light rain jacket as the weather can change very quickly.
Don’t get discouraged if the weather doesn’t look great on the day of your visit. Even if it rains in Bilbao, it can be nice and sunny by the sea. This was exactly what happened when we visited. It was rainy in San Sebastian and pouring in Bilbao, but the weather was much nicer once we got to Gaztelugatxe. We started our hike in rain jackets, but the sun came out and by the end of the hike we were hiking in T-shirts.
Good to know: There is a small shelter at the top of the hill near the Chapel of San Juan de Gaztelugatxe. That’s pretty much the only place on the entire hike where you can find some shade or hide from the rain and wind. The chapel itself was closed when we visited and there was no sign indicating if or when it’s open. I think they only open it for special occasions or religious celebrations.
7. Avoid weekends
If possible, try to plan your visit to Gaztelugatxe on a weekday, especially if you are traveling during the summer. This place is very popular with locals as well as foreign visitors, so weekends in the warm season can get really busy.
If you are visiting individually, without a tour, you may also consider planning your visit (much) later in the day. Most guided tours that visit Gaztelugatxe usually come here first thing in the morning (10-11.30 AM) so it’s a lot more difficult to find a free time slot and it’s also busier on the trails. Finding parking can also be challenging, especially late in the morning/noon when the first visitors haven’t left yet and many others arrive.
On the other hand, it gets warmer during the day, so if you are traveling in the summer and want to avoid hiking during the warmest hours, you may want to try to reserve the earliest time slot.
Good to know: Eneperi Restaurant/bar/beer house is usually only open in the afternoon (1.30-4 PM – see their website for up-to-date info), so many people visiting after noon will stay longer (making it more difficult to find a parking spot). The quietest days are Mondays and Tuesdays when the restaurant is closed and there are few local visitors. You are more likely to find a free time slot for Gaztelugatxe and it’s also much easier to find parking upon arrival.
Our experience: We visited Gaztelugatxe on a Monday afternoon, starting around 2.30 and leaving a bit past 4 PM. Despite the fact that it was the peak season, July, we had no issues finding a parking spot and the hiking trail wasn’t nearly as busy as I expected. The restaurant was closed, but you could buy drinks or some ice cream at a small kiosk at the entrance.
8. Park at the lower parking near the restaurant
There are two car park areas close to the Gaztelugatxe entrance. The ‘official’ car parking is located just off the main road and is free of charge. However, this parking is very small, just about 20 spaces. Plus, it’s a bit further from the entrance, which means that you will have to add about 200 meters extra to your uphill walk on the way back.
The private parking next to the restaurant is much bigger and it’s easier to find a good spot for your car here. It’s also closer to the entrance. They charge a small fee (at the moment, 3 euros), but we found that it was well worth it instead of trying to squeeze our car into the tiny parking spaces at the upper parking.
TIP: We indicated both parking areas, the official entrance, and other helpful locations on the map that you can find further below.
Campers! If you are visiting Gaztelugatxe with a camper, keep in mind that you can only park at the main parking next to the main road (if there are any spaces left!). Campers are not allowed on the last narrow stretch of the road which leads to the bigger parking. You might be able to park further down the main road, but I have no personal experience with this, so I don’t know how easy that is.
9. Be respectful
San Juan de Gaztelugatxe is a place of historical and religious significance. It’s also a protected natural area. Camping, climbing, diving, or driving are not allowed and it’s forbidden to disrupt the flora and the fauna in any way. Drones are not allowed either.
We read on many websites that it’s a tradition to ring the chapel bell three times and make a wish once you reach the top. However, the chapel was closed when we visited and the bell rope was secured in such a way that people couldn’t reach it.
It looked to me that they don’t really encourage this tradition, but there was nobody at the top to ask about it. So I’d say just look around, enjoy the amazing views, and don’t leave a trace.
How to see Gaztelugatxe without a reservation
If you cannot secure a reservation to enter the San Juan de Gaztelugatxe site, don’t despair. Here is how you can still visit or at least see this unique place:
- Book a guided tour! Tour operators use a different booking system and/or prebook plenty of tickets. So even if there are no time slots left on the official site for individual visits, you can usually find last-minute availability on guided tours that visit Gaztelugatxe.
- Check the official website multiple times before your visit to see if there are any cancellations. Since reservations are free, people sometimes book multiple time slots, or their plans change, or they don’t arrive on time and their bookings get canceled. While the chances aren’t high, it’s sometimes possible to secure a last-minute ticket this way.
- Behind the restaurant at the main entrance, there is a big garden with a playground. If you walk past the playground toward the sea, you will see a terrace overlooking San Juan de Gaztelugatxe in the distance. This viewpoint is called Mirador Eneperi on Google Maps; we indicated it on our map below. While it’s not the same as visiting Gaztelugatxe, it’s far better than driving all the way there and not seeing it at all. (There are several other places where you can catch a glimpse of Gaztelugatxe without a ticket, but this one is the closest offering a pretty good view).
MAP
To help you plan your visit, we created this map indicating all the important locations for your visit to San Juan de Gaztelugatxe.
Once you get there, you will also find detailed maps of the area and the two routes. But the hike is so straightforward that you really have nothing to worry about. Just locate the entrance and then follow the main path; it’s as easy as that.
How to use this map: Use your computer mouse (or fingers) to zoom in or out. Click on the icons to get more information about each place. Click the arrow on the top left corner for the index. Click the star next to the map’s title to add it to your Google Maps account. To view the saved map on your smartphone or PC, open Google Maps, click the menu and go to ‘Your Places’/’Maps’. If you want to print the map or see it in a bigger window, click on ‘View larger map’ in the top right corner.
So, this is our guide to visiting San Juan de Gaztelugatxe. I hope that it gives you a better idea of what to expect and helps you plan a memorable visit to this remarkable site.
The location, stunning views, and uniqueness of the site make it a must-visit for anyone exploring Spain’s Basque Country. Gaztelugatxe is absolutely worth a trip!
TIP: If you are visiting this part of Spain, you can’t miss Bilbao! The city has exceeded all our expectations and it was mostly thanks to all the amazing experiences we had there. There is a lot to see and do in Bilbao and it’s well worth a trip. If you are short on time, take a look at our detailed itinerary with tips on how to experience the very best of Bilbao in a day. Check it out!
READ ALSO: Getaria, a true gem on the Basque coast
More travel inspiration & tips for Spain:
- Top places: Spain Bucket List
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- Madrid:
- Seville:
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